Foodie

During the years of military dictatorship in Brazil (1964 - 1989), newspapers used to publish recipes protesting against the censorship. So much to tell and still having to be quiet.

Time has come to talk about food. You'll be presented to the delicious local cuisine today!

Firstly, it's important to state that there is nothing such a "haute cuisine" here. Yet the local produce is awesome and the fresh ingredients make up for anything that someone might require. I myself am more a fan of the terroir trend than of eating expensively, therefore I am 100% satisfied.

Nothing bellow have I cooked myself - I only took the photos, usually with a poor mobile camera. The transliteration is not the official one - I took the pronunciation as the rule, so think you're reading in English.

Fool

This fava beans dish is usually served as a breakfast course to be eaten with local bread. You can also add sausages or boiled eggs to eat if you want to have something even more substantial. Spices commonly added are salt, garlic, black pepper, cumin and parsley. 

My verdict: one of my favourites to be eaten at any time of the day. I even have my favourite street's kiosk to feed me on fool, but it seems that many people agree with me, because they start selling it at seven and by lunch time everything is gone. =P

Rice

This is a rice photo, not a rice pudding photo. It's incredible how people here can put the rice like this and yet,by some secret that passes from generation to generation and is oblivious to the Brazilian ex-pats, when you serve your rice, the grains pour at your plate like a Spring rain and do not stick together as Asian rice. The yellowish colour is somehow related to the countryside, as a friend of mine explained. Cooks in the capital city will serve you bright white rice.

My verdict: I have a rice tin here and I didn't know what it was for rice, but thought it was for pudding! Rice here troubles Brazilians who want it how the locals like it, but we are somehow unable to obtain the same results with the same product. The cooks I asked about their secret, told me they first fry the rice in oil before adding water, but that is exactly what we do in my state, Minas Gerais. Local rice is very yummie and is both the base and the side dishes for many recipes here. I'm for the countryside style and like more the golden-style rice. Additives that make the rice white are a big no for me.  

Waraq Enab

 

A roll stuffed with rice and wrapped in grape leaves. You can have vegetarian Waraq Enab with rice only - and maybe some herbs - but you may also add chicken or grounded beef to it. It's seasoned with tomato sauce, onions, lemon (here the green small one, that we call 'lemon' anyway, but the official name in English is 'lime'), salt, pepper and cumin. 

My verdict: another favourite. It's so nice to see the leaves being sold in the market, a proof that with creativity nothing in Nature is wasted.  I also like how everyday food has little meat in it, in a way that makes it balanced without the need of exaggerating anything. But I feel rather demotivated to cook my own rolls - the idea of working with the grape leaves seems to me to require abilities that my clumsy person doesn't fancy to. 

Yoghurt sauce (with chicken in the background)

I have eaten several different yoghurt sauces without a particular recipe to draw my attention to. I love them all, tho, I hope to leave the country knowing how to make one or two.

My verdict: although the sauces are very delicious and I enjoy having something creamy on the top of the salad that is not cheese - for the sake of some variation - I confess I had some very romantic ideas of yoghurt in the MENA Region. All the ones I have found so far have an ingredient list in which milk is just one of several ingredients more similar to periodic table elements than to things you would expect in a cookbook. The positive thing is that I can buy non flavoured yoghurt in an 1 kilo bowl. 

Happy Thanksgiving!

I have written about my liking for linking traditions and food for the occasion of Easter. Not having a reason to make any connection with the American Thanksgiving, but wanting to taste a pumpkin pie, I baked some anyway, and they became some friends' favourite.

Today, I had the opportunity to find out how a traditional Thanksgiving Day is. So amidst the conflicts of Gaza vs. Israel, the demonstrations in Jordan and unresolved situation in Libya I:

- ate Turkey for the first time;
- shared with a friend who was next to me, reasons I am thankful for;
- learnt that people usually write to friends to say that we are thankful for them!

So, here my friends, is a card for you. Thank you all for your friendship and support. I love you all!

Click HERE to see the card. By the way, that e-mail address that appears on the card is a false one. I don't want to receive spam in my inbox, right?

Big thanks for the host family for letting me be part of your Thanksgiving's tradition. :)

Reminiscences

These photos were taken last Brazilian Summer, almost one year ago. An afternoon in my parent's house porch, the grass smelling the sun and an important dilemma to argue about: do we agree with Devon or Cornwall folks? 

A tropical version of the Devonshire scone, with home-made pineapple jam. 

More traditional Cornwall scones with home-made strawberry jam.

HERE is a source about this Devonshire vs. Cornwall competition. Well, some people have asked about how is local food and for recipes. I am slow on this matter - I like eating the local food, but when it comes to cook, I am always referring to my old recipes. More than cooking, baking is a hobby. And even though now living in MENA, as strange as it may sound (but then it could be also strange living in Latin America), there is nothing that appeals more to me, than a lazy afternoon with home smelling baked goods and a warm cup of tea. (in a perfect day I would have sung the whole morning and will spend the whole evening reading). 

Now, to bake here during Summer was hell, because of the heat. So I gave up. But now that the temperatures are decreasing, the oven is turning active little by little. It's a sign that life is settling: the fact that "home-made" is not a false ad, but a true adjective to the foods I find in my fridge and cupboard. 

Better still is to be able to share. Now that I have a flatmate, sharing mouthfuls of yummies became very easy! : D And in a time of life when 'time' is what I don't have, this brilliant idea of scones is the most appealing to me - Ana Granziera describes scones as something in-between bread and cake that  are easily made by mixing everything together and putting it in the oven.  

But even then, when a holiday in on the way it helps a lot! Yesterday was the Islamic New Year. A very complicated subject that I am not going to attempt to explain. You can find information in the Wikipedia's article. Interestingly I didn't see a single shop closed and many people were working like a very normal day. 

I am looking forward to more 'normal' days for me: friends to share good conversations, home-made food and good music. 

Eid al-Adha

Working in an international school, you sometimes forget where you are really living. First, you don't speak Arabic at your work, which is the place you spend most part of your day. Even if the school has many native people, they speak the school language - English in our case. Then, you live in this "third culture" environment, as anthropologists call it. This mix of cultures: not the local culture, not your culture, not also the official culture - which would be american in our case, just because we use an American curriculum.

Then, you come across a scene like this:

And you remember: oh, yeah, I am living in the Middle East. And Eid al-Adha is coming (it's not because it's MENA that you'll see it everyday. A propos, in Brazil, I could sometimes spot a similar scene near where my parent's house is).

Today is the first day of Eid al-Adha. It means "Feast of Sacrifice",when Muslims celebrate that God provided a sheep to Abraham, so that he could save his son Isaac's life of being sacrificed. You can find the narrative in Genesis, a holy book for both Jews, Christians and Muslims, but the prescription of the Eid al-Adha comes from the Koran.

There is an special prayer for Eid al-Adha and people should dress their best clothes for it. Also, the rams in the photo are for sacrifice. If you have the economic means to buy an animal (it could also be a cow, or a sheep, or a camel, or a goat), you will sacrifice it. One third is for you and your family,one third for your relatives and friends, one third for the poor.

According to an information found in Wikipedia, "in Pakistan alone nearly 10 million animals are slaughtered on Eid days costing over US$ 3 billion". A holy day is also a possibility for a ceasefire when you have a war going on, like in Syria. Unfortunatly, an official truce doesn't mean it will really happen. You can check about Syria in the Al Jazeera's website.

For more information about the Eid al-Adha's traditions and practices, check out the Wikipedia's article. 

One week with Mom & Dad... WOW!

So, it really happened. Mom and dad came here and spent one week with me. After so many months dreaming and talking about, they appeared in that fateful arrival gate.

My "Lonely Planet Guide" gave the best description of the city so far: embrace the apparent chaos, crack a joke and learn to look through the dirt to see the city's true colours. Although the North is very different from the South and the capital different of everything, I would say that the description applies to the country. So we had one week together to see the true colours, listen the true sounds and taste the true flavours.

Here are some of the most remarkable moments:

1) Mom could cross the streets like a local in two days. It took me five months...
2) They both think the drivers here are the best in the world. With such a crazy traffic, so little car crashes...
3) Dad declared if he lived here he would only get taxi drives. Dirty cheap! 
4) They loved the onions, the tomatoes (actual red, with actual tomato's taste), "aish baladi" (the local bread), the nuts, the dates, the grapes (and this one was far from the best ones in high Summer), not to mention the fresh fruit juices;
5) They also learned some words of Arabic. I am very proud of this.
6) One week here and they saw a bit of rain. I'm here for six months and it was my first time too. 2 minutes of rain, but I was more than excited about that.
7) I was the one who wanted to come back home early, they were the ones asking: what are we doing next? 
8) They were marvelled by the desert, by the contrast between the desert and the sapphire blue sea, by the contrast of the green farming and desert along the road;
9) They tasted Turkish coffee - not filtered and flavoured with cardamom. But with so many different things to experiment with, they didn't have time to eat Turkish delight!
10) Finally, after seeing the biggest shopping mall of the Middle East, dad concluded: well, you can live well here. 

And then they went away. I love it here. But I miss them tenderly. And my dear friends: I miss you all. When are you coming to to look through the dirt to see the city's true colours? 

Decorations are still hanging

Sometimes it's already end of January and Christmas decorations are still hanging. I found some decorations of Ramadan time in my camera (which, by the way, fell down and it's broken now). And I thought that, although Ramadan is over, it wouldn't be bad to share these with you. ;-)

Now, after one month writing almost daily I needed a pause. But Loonie Lou is back and she's loads of things to write about. 

For instance, did you notice that demonstrations have become popular all around the world? Japan, Spain, South Africa, not to mention all the Arab World. Just thought it worthy of mention... 

See ya soon. 

Ramadan's Journal #27

Today is the last entry I'm writing about Ramadan. Because the month of fasting ends today.

Tomorrow - and after tomorrow - is going to be holiday here (remember, weekend here is Friday). The holiday is called Eid ul-Fitr. It means something like "Festivity for the end of Fasting". I've been told people are going to be celebrating in the streets and having fun. Unfortunately, I have read in the newspapers, that harassment of women increases considerably during Eid. It seems so serious that a local feminist movement is going to promote patrols in metro stations.

I thought that a good thing to prayer about is to ask for end of sexual harassment. And, because it's not going to end suddenly, to ask that we, ladies, may learn to speak up against it and that we may not feel guilty or devalued because of it.

The following short film tackles the issue. It's in Arabic, but I'm sure you can understand it: the harassment, the inside voice blaming herself, the shame, suffering, and a final point when she SPEAKs UP. There'll be a period. A full stop.

As it is stated in the end of the video:

you are not flattering

you are harassing

your silence allows it. speak up

That's my prayer and celebration for Eid.

You can read Wikipedia's article for the Eid HERE.

PS: I was planning to write about Eid, telling about all the yummie biscuits that appeared recently in the baker's and crowded supermarkets. But how could I when I open the [e-]newspapers and article after article is talking about what I actually wrote? Definitely, I am not the one who is going to keep quiet, right?

PS2: a bomb in Herat, Afghanistan, kills 12 civilians. Taliban saying Eid Karim! (generous Eid) - they said the killings in the last days are their Eid's message. Not that I am going to reason about this, but I guess I'm feeling a bit like John Lenon today. Eid Mubarak (Happy Eid), War is not Over. 

Ramadan's Journal #26

There is a place I really like here. It's the immigration office. How different it is from the other parts of the city. Although women still take part in the public life here - as singers, TV stars, evening news' presenters and cashiers - public offices are the most friendly work-places for women. In this places, women usually don't have lower incomes than men and they are more welcome then in the private enterprises.

So, it's always a pleasure to go to the immigration office. All those veiled women laughing loud during their breakfast time, shouting to men on the other side of their desks and telling everybody else to obey them. Talk about empowerment of women. There is a spot in their lives where they have power - and better still, they know it.

How different was to apply to a visa during Ramadan. No bad humour, but no breakfast together, to start with. Try to picture yourself: office hours are from 8:00 to 14:00, but be sure that at eight, they're  sipping their teas and eating aish baladi with something: it can be feta cheese, beans, cucumber or eggs. They're waiting for the officials to bring the documents they are going to work with, with laughter and chitchat. Not during Ramadan, of course.

Then you have a pretty silent office. All civil workers are there waiting for their papers and they don't have much to talk to each other. No smiles. The woman who attends me is even polite this time. Justice be done, it seems the ex-pats are more polite to her as well - it is as though everybody's energy went out.

Hopefully, next time, the place will be alive again. ;-)

Ramadan's Journal #25

Today I'll write the gloomiest post of this Ramadan's series. Not about something that has happened to me. And, actually, probably doesn't have to do with Ramadan per si - any big national event would probably have the same consequences. But how can one read all this news about countries in the same region and don't feel moved? Particularly in a time where, in spite of the bad humour of people because of a strict fasting in ages when Narcisism is the law, believers are supposed to be more generous,  more supportive.

Iran faces an earthquake tragedy. Not only the government response is slow... (as most of things get slow in Ramadan) but all those who are hurt need blood infusion. But how to give blood if you are fasting?

And Afghani people, who had their quota of sufferings in the past decades, now are targeted in the craziest of attacks. It seems it become fashionable to explode bombs in crowded markets, with people spending the little they have to celebrate the Eid (the day after Ramadan ends).

Isn't it to cry and tremble?

The news were published by Al Jazeera. You can read about Iran here and about Afghanistan here. 

Ramadan's Journal #24

In the Wikipedia entry about Ramadan is stated that fasting doesn't pose any risk to healthy individuals. On the contrary, there is even a reduction of cholesterol in the blood of those observing Ramadan.

I decided I wanted to be healthier in Ramadan too. Because during Iftar the traffic is a bit lighter and even virtually in-existent in certain areas, it makes an ideal time to go jogging. Not because I'm jogging amid the cars, but because of pollution levels. I have looked and looked for a running track or a jogging place. There is none nearby. Jogging isn't popular here as it is in other places. And clubs' membership are very expensive, so that's out of question.

So a local friend suggested to go to a certain avenue, which is a safe place, and run there in the pavement. It's not the best way, but until something better comes up, I won't stop. Every time I run I wonder why I stayed such a long time without doing it.

Ramadan karim - generous Ramadan to my health and my sleepless nights. 

Ramadan's Journal #23

I found two very interesting videos in YouTube that illustrates many things I have been talking about in the last weeks:

First, Ramadan in Sweden, a western country where Muslims are minority:

Then, Ramadan in Egypt, a middle-eastern country, where Muslims are majority:

Enjoy! Really interesting videos!!! 

Ramadan's Journal #22

It may give an impression that Ramadan is all about fasting. And to a certain extent, as a non believer, my life is affected - if I can be bold enough to say it is affected - because of the fasting and it's consequences to the traffic or public transportation.

However, it certainly isn't all about food. If you are to observe Ramadan, you should increase the number of your prayers and also the reading/reciting of the Koran.

[SIDE COMMENT:] [I know there are lots of discussion about prayers in Islamism, but I am the last person in the world who would discuss the differences between Sunnis, Shi'as, etc.]

Muslims have five mandatory prayer times. It is really a prayer time, because you should pray in pre-determined hours of the day. They are:

1st - Fajr, from dawn to sunrise;
2nd - Zuhr, after noon, until Asr, which is the next prayer time;
3rd - Asr, in the afternoon;
4th - Maghrib, after sunset or dusk;
5th - Isha, from dusk until dawn.

Now, prayer, it's not only to close your eyes or quietly recite some poem or verses. You have a whole prescription for prayer, including preparation, stance and place.

What does this have to do with Ramadan? In Ramadan you should pray more. So, people add another prayer time: the Tarawih, an extra congregational prayer at night. So, after breaking the fast, you'll see lots of people heading to the mosques.

Tarawih is an interesting way of accomplishing two things at once. During this prayers 1/30 of the Koran is recited. That means that in the end of Ramadan, you'll have recited the whole Koran plus prayed a lot more.

If you want to know details or go deeper in the subject, check the Wikipedia entry for worship practices in Islam.

Ramadan's Journal #21

Today's tales is from work again. The newest AC in the office broke. Because it's Summer, it's very important to fix it.

Three o'clock in the afternoon: we are contacting the technical support service. 'No', they replied, 'Today, no one can go and repair your air conditioner'.

Lack of staff? Staff busy? They themselves clarify: It's Ramadan! 

Ramadan's Journal #20

I might have been getting too local... 22:00 and I'm cooking my dinner. =\ 

Beautiful Ramadan's decoration:

To make clear: these pics were taken from a touristic space. I doubt any person would decorate his/her house like this. 

My taste for a more heavy-metal-minimalist style is getting messed up. 

Ramadan's Journal #19

There are some things I haven't seen during Ramadan - talking here about things I read I would see:

- Because it's a month, you should be more generous and give more generously, it is expected an increase of beggars in the streets. But probably because economy is going bad, it's been the same for me: a lot of people sleeping in the streets and lots of beggars everywhere (so sad there are things like these in any part of the world...). 

- Also in the name of generosity, rich people and big companies would cater Iftar for the poor. I haven't seen any of this - it doesn't mean there isn't any, of course. 

I have seen and heard about that for the services where people will keep working even before, during or after Iftar, they gather together to celebrate in the workplace. Like people in the supermarket around the corner, or the fakakhani (fruit vendor) and his staff (including a child who shouldn't be working, but...);

Taxi drivers aren't more generous. As in everywhere in the world, they keep trying to cheat you, Ramadan or not. =P 

Ramadan's Journal #18

I guess I'm tired and in need of a good laugh.

Ramadan's Journal #17

Someone asked me if I was going to have special working hours during Ramadan.

"Oh, yes, I replied, I'll start working full time". =P

No joke! But here I found one:

Tariq was travelling down a path in Bahawalpur, Pakistan when he saw a large group of people outside a house.

It was in the middle of the day during Ramadan, so he stopped and asked Asif why such a large crowd of men was gathered there at this time.

Asif replied, 'Saleem's camel kicked his mother-in-law and she died.' 
'Well,' replied the man, 'She must have had a lot of friends.'

'Nope,' said Asif.' We all just want to buy his camel.'

Source: http://www.guy-sports.com/humor/saints/ramadan_humour.htm (with lots of other jokes).

Ramadan's Journal #16

Another thing that also changes in Ramadan is opening hours. Shops won't open in the morning, sometimes not also in the afternoon. I live in a 24/7 metropolis, but it is unbelievable how nights become even more kindled with joy, conversations, people in the streets, horns and... music. I live in a quiet neighbourhood (quiet for local patterns), but one of the neighbours always leave to the street in the middle of the night playing his tambourine. Of course, with such a liveliness in the evening, why bother with business during the day? 

Well, that is for Ramadan today. But a friend asked in the national version of the blog about Muslims being allowed to smoke and I promised her an answer. So, here goes a quick answer by an outsider (if you are looking for an extensive research about the theme, google it, read a book or talk to a scholar). 

* * * 

Tobacco has been used in the Americas (the continent) for years before the Europeans' arrival, but  its further dissemination and commercialization as cigarettes started only in the 16th century, after their presence. Therefore, like other Sacred Books, Koran does not rule specifically about it, because it was written in the 7th century and believers should look for principles that guide them concerning the matter. 

The theme is obviously very controversial: the ones who are con, will say it's prohibited because it harms your health, does no good to yourself and to others, is a signal of moral decadence etc. The ones who are pro will say there's nothing clear about it in Koran and that the addiction would be the sin, not smoking itself. There is actually a fatwa (new legal rulings made by Islamic scholars), which prohibits the use of tobacco. 

However, the fact is that, prohibited or not, people do smoke a lot here. ;-) 

I couldn't write this all by my own knowledge, of course. Besides Wikipedia, here are the sources: 

• The evils of smoking: for inside opinion; 
• Smoking Fatwa: for legal resource. 

Ramadan's Journal #15

Today, another underground chronicle.

I was coming back home after a lunch and a walk with a friend, the feeling that I just had a perfect Friday/weekend. I was thirsty, but we were in public spaces and the metro is certainly not the place to eat or drink. I knew, however, that soon it would be time for fasting breaking. Somehow, the anticipation of being able to drink the water that was inside my bag was getting very irritating. My throat burning; my head light.

Suddenly the women sit besides me offers me Fanta. I gaze willingly the fresh orange drink and politely  refuse. She insists, I vehemently say no - was it too much obvious that I needed to drink something? Or was just temptation? Around the wagon, people start moving. Some open snacks. A woman comes offering dates to everybody. A girl passes to her mother a packaged meal. Oh, it's time for Iftar.

I accept a date and drink all my water at once. Just feel like I'm part of the scenario somehow. With dates and water, just like the tradition. The angels should have been all over. =) 

Ramadan's Journal #14

I'm trying not to complain about traffic again... This time, after Iftar, when everybody seems to go into streets to do whatever.

Instead I will talk about Ramadan during the different seasons.

I have never seen dawn here. But I know that everyday, about 5 o'clock in the morning, the rays of sun comes through the windows' slots and gently wake me up. The apartment is all drowned in light in the very early morning. Then, about 19:00 the sun sets. It doesn't get dark before 20:00, tho. 


So, you eat the suhur before dawn - the first large meal. Then, when daylight is over, they'll break the fast with dates or water, before Iftar. With 40ºC during the day. 


Ramadan during Summer is hard. 


But I still have one question: if during one month, Muslims should fast from dawn to sunset, how they do if they're living on Finland or Sweden, where, for some days, the sun doesn't set?

Ramadan's Journal #13

Today's story was told by a friend, who has just arrived - by plane. At 2:00 in the morning.

She explained that three planes had landed at similar times and, therefore, the immigration queue was long. Very long. Now, it's not a normal immigration situation. It's a queue of people who has until 3 in the morning to eat their last meal (the vast majority of them, at least), which is the time of the first prayer, during Ramadan's month.

I suppose the whole thing gets a new scope because immigration officers are probably in the same situation of the travellers - and want to finish their job as soon as possible. My friend said they were working as fast as she never saw before.

Honestly, I wonder why the West still believes in secularism. In this part of the world, it seems but a faint trace of another dimension. 

Ramadan's Journal #12

Sugar comes from Arabic. It's true. It's also the title of an Arabic book.

If you go to share Iftar with a family, you're likely to take some sweets as a gift for your hosts. People here love sweets. I am pretty sure the biggest luxury is to have some home-made dessert. That's my opinion, tho, and it probably differs from the general one. When you pass in front a candy shop, you'll see people carrying out decorated boxes like this:

 

This one was a present of a friend, who came over for dinner. :) Very nice of her. And the cake was delicious. I love mango and my favourite cakes and pies are the ones made with fruit.

We weren't breaking any fasting tho. ;P 

Ramadan's Journal #11

YouTube has a special channel for Ramadan. Check out HERE.

You will not find prayers, preaching or discussions. All you will find is SOAP OPERA. Yes, that's it: during Ramadan special soaps and television series are aired. What's better than having families meeting for dinner - and obviously watching TV together? :-P

The channel has series from several countries where Muslims are majority and, therefore, depicts distinct faces of MENA - with tons of drama. From rich posh characters and women in clothes I wouldn't dare to wear to belly dances and sheesha; from that "tendencious" Arabic flair to MTV more modern verve: only you need to understand Arabic, because there is no subtitles. But even if you don't,  it's worth to check at least the first minutes of some of them, because they show some kind of main scenes with some pop/folk music in the background.

Enjoy!

Ramadan's Journal #10

Two or three weeks before the Ramadan's month start and people begin to prepare themselves for it, prices in the [super] market skyrocket. Every Iftar is a (mini) feast, everyday people are going to eat a lot and in the end, when Eid comes, there will be Eid's Feast and parties everywhere.

The worst thing is that prices don't come back to "normal". Humpf! =(

Ramadan's Journal # 9

Break is over. Readers are starting to pose questions and this is the point when I really start enjoying blogging - when we can have some interaction. Nonetheless, before answering their questions, we'll talk about Iftar and the effects of it in the everyday life. Iftar is the fast-breaking meal at sunset.

Yesterday I arrived when the sun was setting.

That meant most of the people were already getting ready for Iftar. And the streets were again quiet, with the exception of crazy drivers wanting to arrive home as soon as the accelerator would permit. Therefore, instead of waiting too much for a taxi or having a rive that could kill me before getting home, I decided that the suitcase and I would go home... walking. It made my back ache, but 20 minutes isn't anything. To cross some airports you would spend more time than I did. =P 

Today, I relived again the experience of fasting because I was out in the streets. Actually in museums, but I am a NERD and I am MAD about museums, so I spent 6 hours in two places and didn't get to see half of the first. 

When I came back home I needed to buy some food. I had an empty fridge after all. The bread's vendors comes shouting along my way: 3AISH!!!!! 3AISH!!!!! The most delicious bread is guaranteed: the local bread or 3aish baladi in my backpack. 

The drinks' vendor also need to make a living, fasting or not. People can't drink in the streets, but nothing forbids them to buy the drinks. Many local drinks are sold in charts like this: 

Globosapiens.net is the owner of this picture. ;-)

But today they were sold in plastic bags, so that people can take the drinks home. A plus to creativity. 

I couldn't resist and had to buy some of the tmar hindi (tamarind) drink. Drink in the grocery tote and heading home, to find the fakahaani ("fruitier") selling a kind of fruit I didn't know before coming here: 

He tells me the name of the fruit is teen. If he says, it is. But the translation for it is figs, and this obviously isn't figs. The fruit skin is very prickly and the fakahaani will always take the skin for you and sell you the fruit ready-to-eat. =) 

The pink ones are the sweetest. Teens in the backpack and - home! After all I need a Iftar for my involuntary fasting. ;-)

By the way, you should read all Arabic transliteration as in English. And the sound of '3' is like a glottal "A". So just read a long "A". =P 

Ramadan's Journal #8

The only remambrance of Ramadan is the lack of remambrance. =)

Red Sea out...

 ... and in.  

Taking a break! 

PS: source of second photo is: http://www.dahab-info.com/images/rasmohmmed.jpg 

Ramadan's Journal #7

Today, still a bit on the subject of traffic, an extract from a magazine called "Oasis" on an article about Ramadan:

[...] fasting Muslims are not supposed to smoke while fasting. This will have a strong effect on the drivers [...] as the insanity and road rage will be felt more than usual and [they] will test the very limits of Physics as they attempt to perform driving maneuvers participants in the Indy 500 would baulk at. Taxis and buses  will also stop running at least half an hour before sunset and if you are going far, they will probably decline to take you. 

Ramadan's Journal #6

Another thing that is deeply affected by Ramadan is the traffic. The traffic isn't crazy in the whole MENA region, but here it's probably the craziest (and I'm talking as a Brazilian. I'm used to a lawless traffic). As a friend well pointed out: the three lane streets easily become a five lane street.

Last Friday, first Ramadan's day, was the quietest day I've ever witnessed here so far. Friday, as I've mentioned before, is the equivalent of Sunday in more Christian and/or Western countries, so Friday morning is usually quiet - for local patterns, not that I didn't wish it to be even quieter (But, then, it's me in my love for silence and solitude. My problem, that's all). I  wish we had more days like that! =)

Luckily not only Friday was quieter than usual, but while people are at home eating, in the evening, silence reigns in the streets once more. Imagine that everybody is now using their mouths to get some food inside, instead of shouting, talking, quarelling, laughing.

An extremely busy street in early morning (not on Friday, tho). 

Ramadan's Journal #5

Ramadan's colours are blue, green, orange and yellow. About 20 - 15 days prior to the first day, people start putting up decorations outside and inside.

Residencial buildings are decorated:

As well as shops. Some of them look like giant tents (still couldn't have a photo of one of them, but I will still try, in the future):

This decoration motive is called "Khayameyya". Lanterns are also used everywhere: windows, cars and wherever you can hang one.

Ramadan's Journal #4

Many travel guides advise against travelling during Ramadan. Lonely Planet Guide explains: "During the Muslim month of fasting, many Cafés and restaurants are closed during daylight hours, while sights and offices are open for reduced and erratic hours". That is absolutely right to those backpacking or going for the first time to a place they have never been. For those who live in the countries where the majority is fasting, it's a good option to...

...be on the road. Since people should dedicate themselves to prayer, it isn't a time to go on holidays, and, therefore, the pricesor accomodation become very accecible. ;-)

If you have an all inclusive packet, the new moon will be the only remanbrance that Ramadan has started.

The Sufi Dance will be out of place. It's incredible how much mastery the dancer has, but at this time of the year, it's a mere turistic thing. (Why? Read about Sufi Dance HERE or wait until I write someday about Sufism).

Well, for us who aren't taking part, let's enjoy and dance:

Folk Dance - People of the Desert

Folk Dance - Sea people;

Folk Dance - Whatever.

Ramadan's Journal #3

As the Olympic Games approaches, I was wondering how Muslim athletes would cope with fasting. Al Jazeera's article came at the right time:

So, it seems that they have the choice, to a certain extent, to add extra days after the official season or to do it in another occasion (for moderate minds), as it applies to expectant women or sick people . One think I thought interesting, was Maher Abu Rmeileh, the Palestinian judokka pointing out that  Ramadan isn't just fasting, but also dedication to prayer. So, it doesn't make much sense to stop eating and drinking, but keep practising.

Ramadan's Journal #2

The main advice people gave for the Ramadan's season was to not eat or drink in the public spaces, during fasting time. Even though, many of us are not fasting, it's a sign of respect for those who are.

Yesterday, it wasn't very hard, because I left home in the morning to meet a friend. Then, she gave me lift back home. Then I left again for a game's evening in the neighbourhood and came back home. I could easily avoid drinking water during my public appearances.

But today I wanted to backpack in the city, that is, to have a map in a hand and lot of curiosity to visit non-touristic places. Without water that was hard. And I was getting hungry, hungry... finally I end up in an until now unknown haven - an amazing bookshop, probably the best in town - and they had a clean toillet (very much like in Brazil, that's rare)! So I could refresh myself. And they had a garden, as well. So, I confess, I went to the garden to sneak some food I had brought from home.

If it's Ramadan, you end up fasting with everybody else - involuntarily. =) 

Ramadan's Journal - #1

Ramadan is the Muslim month of fasting. You may ask why, if I'm not a Muslim, I am writing a Ramadan's Journal. It's because Ramadan isn't something you do if you feel like doing it. It's not like Lent, in Western countries, that you think you can even choose what are you living without for the season of fasting (like, eating meat, but not eating chocolate, because you are chocoholic and it's going to be much more difficult to live without cocoa in your veins than without meat - that's at least the excuse commonly given, if any is given). Ramadan is mandatory. Therefore, starting from today, the world have a large part of  its population, who is fasting. It may influence more our life than you and I ever thought of it. ;-)

Now, since I'm living in MENA, it is obviously going to influence, change and challenge my life in a daily basis - after all a whole country is fasting. Do you have any idea of what this means? I still don't, but I'm about to discover. And since the purpose of this blog is to share my everyday experiences, I thought it would be interesting to share with friends some insights, surprises, curiosities and whatever else happens. I will try to blog everyday for the next 30 days, so stay tuned.

If you got interested on the theme, you can read a quick article in Al Jazeera website. If you want some more information, try the Wikipedia entry for Ramadan.

To make it absolutely clear, it is not my aim either to attack or to promote Ramadan. Let's keep an open mind & heart and be open to dialogue & tolerance. =)

Have a nice weekend!

You're arriving at home after a long day exhausted, thirsty and hungry - and what is your reward for all that?

This... 

 

Enjoy your weekend! (No, it isn't wrong. Weekend here is Friday. People work from Saturday to Thursday, so my weekend is indeed tomorrow. =P) 

Days like this

It was Van Morrison who sang first:

When noone steps on my dreams

there'll be days like this

When people understand what I mean

there'll be days like this

When you bring out the changes

of how everything is

Well my momma told me

there'll be days like this. 

Days like this:

- you wake up late and starving of hunger, but you can remember all the verbs in the present and in the past in your Arabic class' quiz;
- you need to walk, to take a taxi, metro line 1, metro line 2, another taxi to get to lovely people who are going away. You arrive there and can't stop mixing German and Arabic, but leave energized. Now, it's time to come back all the way: taxi-metro-metro-taxi-walking and no taxi driver tries to cheat you; \O/
- you have just seated in the metro, but a mom with a baby comes in. You give your sit to her, people get moved (they always do, it's so sweet) and take your backpack while you stand. The baby has an eldest sister, the sister tries to talk to you and doesn't care about your "survival" Arabic (highlight of the day!). You buy nice biscuits for 50 cents (less than 0.10 USD) of the vendor who comes in your wagon and people even remember you, the station you want is the next... (at this point I was already daydreaming).

So, there are days like this. Sing along!!!

¡Viva La España!

Just to make sure, that I'm updated with things in the outside world. For instance:

CLUBE ATLÉTICO MINEIRO (the football team I support in Brazil) is now in the FIRST place in the National Championship. \O/ Gaaaallloooooo!!!!

Spain has won Euro 2012 and defeated Italy. Everything was special:


- Italy is a traditional opponent of the Brazilian football team; 
- Italy had defeated Germany, which I was supporting firstly; 
- they won the Azuris 4 - 0;
- I can celebrate with Taiana & Rober who are now in Spain and share of their happiness.

So, this is to recall the song I sang in their wedding's party (it's in French, but it's all about how Spanish mood is sooo cool) ;-)

Going around

When your cultural shock starts to pass (or you think it is), then you want to make choices more consciously.   You know people tell you to act this or that way, but something back in your mind insists you should try something else.

I love walking. But my liking contradicts all the advices I get. Since I can't drive, public transportation has to be used. For ex-pats that means going taxing everywhere - or until you can get to next metro station. Well, they aren't wrong in their choice: if you, like me, can't speak enough Arabic, don't know the place yet, when obviously have no idea where the buses and trams are heading to (because there is no signs written anywhere - not in the stops, not even in the buses' front), then what you have to do is go taxing.

Locals, on the other hand, go by bus or tram. Although taxis' charge here is cheaper than in any other world capital, it's not affordable to people go to work or school everyday by taxi. And then, they know how to use the other kinds of public transportations, which also includes tuk-tuks and open-in-the-back trucks.

Where is walking? Virtually nowhere. No one seems to be able to walk 10 minutes or 1 km. And certainly not my 40 minutes walking to Arabic school (to go and come back, 80'). That may cause problems - or give you a funny story.

I was leaving work at 18:00, when I realized I didn't have enough money for the taxi. After considering the options, I looked at the sky... sun isn't so strong anymore and I like walking. So I decided to walk back home and calculated I would take about one hour. I had never done it before, but I had a map, right? Yep, until I get to one roundabout with many streets crossing and I get confused which street I should follow (no, it was not just going straight ahead). And them people started to tell me to follow the trams' rail.

That's what I thought they were telling me. Each time I stopped to ask, the advice was always the same. Until the trail ended and I ended up somewhere totally wrong - and I was completely lost.

Luciana goes all the way back. And then decided to ask once more (after all,I was walking already for 1 hour and a half!). A family is sitting on the pavement and when I ask for directions, I cause a comotion. "Habibiti, that's too far! You can't go walking!" - said the mom. She stops a woman in the street, who could speak English and this one is also mortified. No walking - take the tram, she advises. Okay, now I understand. All the time, I shouldn't have followed the tram's trail but should have taken the tram. 

Well, I'll have to take the tram, then. It was getting dark... and it was a new experience, anyway. Then, I learned two things: how to get the tram and why ex-pats probably don't take the tram. You only get it by chance. I waited for half an hour and it took about 5 minutes to my stop. So, if it comes, take the tram. If it doesn't, go taxing. Or walking - I still haven't given up. =P

Outdoors

I wanted to post something of outdoors. Work is going fine and learning Arabic is much difficult than I have ever thought it would be, but still trying to find my own way and there are already some things that I love doing here.

One of them is watching the sunset - although I don't do this very often. Folks, it's the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen in my life. I thought all the photos I had seen before had manipulated colours by software, but it is inexplicably true: the colours are magnificent, creating shades I never dreamed of existing. Just take the light... it's so powerful any time of the day, but during the sunset it seems to create some transparency. And the sun majestically setting in the horizon line always makes me speechless. Wonder. Astonishment. Never know what wish is stronger: whether I want to contemplate or to follow into the sun.

My photo is nothing. But I went to the desert yesterday for the first time I thought I wanted to share this with you. Had a nice time there, but hope to have lots of more beautiful sunsets for you. :) 

Coming back

Without internet at home, one hasn't much choice, but not to update a blog - especially when you have so much to do in terms of your adaptation in a new place. No crying, folks: I'm back again! =P

There are some nice photos in my mobile, but due to technical reasons, I won't be able to upload them now. Then, stay with a glimpse of my b-day: it was sooo nice! I even had a home-made chocolate cake à la Brazil.

If you have curiosities or questions, let me know in the comments. I have so many ideas to blog that I don't know how to start or what to choose from. =)

Safe and sound

I arrived well, never had such a tranquil flight and conections like this time and everything went very smoothly. I was received at the airport with flowers and amazing people, am a guest of wonderful family, have a caring boss and (bonus) have adopted the family dog, Bingo!

I am happy. =)

Small things, Important Stuff

It's been obvious that I've spent the last months saying goodbyes to everybody and everywhere. There are two reasons, though (besides the recommendation that is important to really "leave behind your homeland", as I've previously pointed out HERE). Firstly, the two other times I was abroad, I left many things unresolved in Brazil. These pendencies were prejudicial to me and I wanted this time to have nothing taking me back. Secondly, and this is a consequence of the first wish, I wanted to finish a cycle in my life. It may be that I’m close the thirties and have this feeling of new phase in life. It felt right and I really think it was the best choice I made.

Thus, for the last time, some highlights of the last goodbyes in the last weeks:

·         At the big Goodbye party, I’ve got two little plants. I found this highly interesting, because they were very beautiful but the ones who gave it to me, didn’t mind that I would enjoy them for just two weeks, since I can’t take any vase of flowers with me. They were tokens of friendship that I really appreciated (and thanks to dad, they are in good hands!);

·         We went to a last football match. I support Atlético Mineiro and we won the match, but it wasn’t the best one… I liked to spend some nice time with cousins, brother and his girlfriend and to have some spare time amidst all the craziness of arranging things;

·         One week later, mom did a family lunch to fifty people, which were family plus close relatives. Even grandpa (!) was there, which made it one of the most important moments;

·         I went to granny to bake “Five Plates Biscuits”, which are a traditional delicatessen from Minas Gerais. Yummie plus GREAT TIME with a GREAT WOMAN;

·         We had another small Goodbye party – which was very nice. As in all parties, we took photos, smiled, hugged, kissed, laughed and I’m truly full of gratitude for all amazing friends and relatives that I have;

·         I went with my parents and siblings to dine out – delicious fish and chips… on the Brazilian fashion, though.;

·         Phoned, talked, e-mailed, texted lots of friends – but couldn’t reach a half of all those I wanted to talk to;

·         Had a last bowl of acai-berries cream, a last “pastel com caldo de cana” (a Brazilian pie with sugar-cane juice) with my brother, a last “pão-de-queijo com cafézinho” (traditional cheese scones from Minas Gerais with coffee on the Brazilian fashion) wit mom;

·         Mom took two days off work to be with me. Nothing could crown it better than this. Without her help, I wouldn’t be able to take off.

Well, you see that I really tried to concentrate on people (and food, but the latter was unintentionally – it came with meeting people).

Too big a post, I will write more next about future plans and great expectations!  =)